Peace. Quiet. Solitude. We arrive up the track in the borrowed 4x4, surrounded by sheep. Nestled into the hillside, hunkered down against the elements is Rhyd Fudr. It has no TV, almost no phone signal, and due to mist and clouds rolling in almost no view. It is our home for the next few days. From here we explore the rain soaked Welsh hills and villages, dance a jig in the spacious lounge and plan our excursions to coast, slate mine and coffee stops. Perfect.